Is $9,995 a good price for a 2011 Ford Ranger?
2.3L Automatic, 2 wheel drive. Regular cab.
2.3L Automatic, 2 wheel drive. Regular cab.
I'm a 16 year old boy and I'm lucky enough to have those two cars to choose from. Both have high mileage, like 350k on the ranger and 250k for the escape. Both have been serviced to a T. I really don't know which car would be best in the Long run. Meaning I don't know which one is most reliable and which one would be best for me and my use of maybe hauling my friends around. So which one do you think is the best choice?
I had some exhaust work done and all the o2 sensors were disconnected. Now I don't know what female end goes to each o2 sensor. I have 2 blue and 2 green but nothing I can see to tell which one is what.
Which one do you think is better and why?
Seems like a brainless question doesn't it? Here is my predicament. I've got this old Ford Ranger that I put a turbo in, but I want to get it some good sound. I have a Altec Lansing system I want to hook up inside of there, but on the back of the system it says 200V, and most AC interters only go to 110V. So how would this affect the speakers (if they would work at all). Also, does anyone know of a >200V power inverter?
I just rebuilt an engine for a 91 ford ranger 2.3L.
My manual says to use 5w-20 conventional but since there have been some advancements in the synthetic oils since the 70's, do I need to worry about seal swell or shrink? My instinct is to just use conventional to play it safe, but I'd really like to use synthetic.
I'm reading conflicted information…
At a stop, clutch pressed in with brakes pressed. Start to release the clutch pedal alongside stepping on accelerator. Truck slowly starts to move at maybe max of 10 mph. Loud clunk is heard from around where the tranny meets the engine, then truck accelerates like normal. Now when accelerating engine rpms do not rise alongside pressing the accelerator, almost as if the computer is keeping it from happening. Issue has persisted for awhile, haven't had the chance to tear apart. If torn apart I ll be replacing the flywheel, clutch l, pressure plate, slave, pilot, and the master. Just to eliminate any possible problems and the fact that I don't want to do it again for the 3rd time around. Previously replaced the clutch and slave at 130k. Now at 160k
I have a 1991 Ford Ranger and I've never had a problem with it. Right after an oil change a few days ago it started making a ticking noise. I've had some people tell me it could be an exhaust leak and I've had some people tell me it could be lifters tapping (god I hope not). The sound can only be heard when in park. For some reason even when I'm idling in Drive I can't hear it at all. When in park it's loud. Also, It's much louder from underneath the truck towards the front close to where the exhaust manifold comes out and connects with the pipe. Can anyone give me some ideas or tips on how to diagnose this issue? Aslo, what are the differences in exhaust leak noises and lifter noises. I've heard it could be the oil pump too but i don't know.
I got the engine to tdc by using the alignmental kit with the tdc peg. I just don't know what way the first cam lobe is suppose to face up or down?
I don't live in California and my EGR tube is faulty. The flared end is turning freely in the exhaust pipe connector and I really don't think it's doing any good. I'm getting a faulty EGR code on my dash light blinks. I can't FIND a dang EGR tube to replace it correctly. Can I just cut a soda can to fit between the EGR valve and my intake? Will it hurt anything?
Added (1). 91 ford ranger xlt 2.3L
Added (2). I'm talking about removing the whole tube and also capping the exhaust port. Just closing off the whole gas recirculation system
Added (3). Alternate option: has anyone ever heard of flaring both sides of a piece of copper tubing to fit?