I recently bough "rust-oleum trim and bumper paint" to paint the trim on my bumper. The trik on my bumper is like a dull gray color. Should I use black primer on it or should i just spray the pain on? I heard it peels without the primer and i want a dee black look to match my truck. (2005 ford ranger xlt)
I have a 99 ford ranger 3.0. Ok let me try to explain this. I'm puzzled on this one. I put a thermostat in the truck and bleed the cooling system. The truck is not over heating or steaming. No white smoke, no bubbles in radiator or resivoir. The temp hand will go up to where it's supposed to be. And when the thermostat opens it goes down. Then back to normal in about 40 seconds. And don't say it's the sensor. Bc I hooked up a manual gage and it done the same thing. I'm lost this is the 3rd stat I've put in it. I can smell antifreeze ever once in a while. But can find 0 leaks. It does have a slight miss on cylinder 6. But I pulled all the plugs. None are wet or show any sign of coolant. Oil is crystal clear.
How adjust a slipping clutch on a 96 ford ranger? - 1
I just got this truck, runs great but no speedometer. I got my boyfriend to change the magnetic speed sensor on the rear differential but did not fix the problem, the fuse looks good, and the connector under the drivers seat was ok. Does anyone know what the problem could be? All of the other gauges work just fine.
I can hear my truck's air conditioner blower running, but there's no air flow from the vents? - 1
Added (1). It's an 2003 Ford Ranger and the problem happened suddenly.
So, I added this chip to my V6 3.0 98 Ford Ranger 5-Speed. I can't drive it yet (Well I get my license next month and I put it in it now) and I was wondering if anyone has put a chip in their vehicle yet? If so what do you think? Can you feel the difference in the car or notice any changes at all? Mine supposedly added ~30hp to the stock 150hp engine so I would think it would quite a tremendous gain. Also it adds low end torch and improves gas millage. Thoughts comments concerns? I spent 200$ on it over the websites 350$ lol.
1991 Ford Ranger XLT - 2.3L 4 Cylinder
Only over heats when A/C is on and is in park/idle. If I turn the A/C off it goes back to normal temp.
My old car which was a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero had 2 fans - big one for the engine and a smaller one for the condenser. However, this truck only has the big fan for the engine ran on a pulley. I'm assuming because of its age.
Anyway, the radiator is fairly new just a few years old, coolant level is full and is bright neon green/yellow so it's obviously still fresh. The fan spins normally as well. I'm thinking maybe there's a clog somewhere?
Also, not sure if this is relevant but the truck was extremely low on freon so i used A/C pro and used the dial on top of the can and set it to that current temperature as instructed, then i added freon until it was in the correct spot on the dial. It was fine but out of curiosity today I hooked it back of up to see what the dial said and the needle was way over in the red area.
If anybody has any ideas as to what could be causing this it would be great to hear back. Also, if there's certain things I should check let me know that as well.
My 1995 ford ranger 3.0 5 speed ran hot and cracked the heads and spun a bearing. Will a 3.0 out of a 1993 Ford Ranger fit and work? My concerns are the 1993 has a distributor and my 1995 does not. Are the water pumps and accessories the same?
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and all of a sudden I was leaving a friend's house when all of a sudden it doesn't want to start. I started it fine about 10 minutes prior to starting it. Now, all it does is it clicks very fast without turning over. It is manual and we managed to push start it but obviously I can't do it alone. When I turn the key before actually starting it, all my lights come on just fine and my headlights are very bright along with my stereo kicking on. Also, when driving home, my engine temp and oil pressure gauges were reading very high after driving it for a while and my battery level was pretty low even though everything was working fine when it was off and when it was off when I got home, I felt inside the engine compartment and it was relatively cool after reading a higher temp.
It is a 96 ford ranger 2.3L 2wd with a 5 speed standard transmission. The issue is that the clutch will not disengage when depressing the pedal. My first thoughts were a bad slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. However, I had a friend push the pedal while I watched the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing and it seems to be functioning properly. So, my question is, does that mean it is the pressure plate that is toast? That is all it could be… Right?