How should I fight my speeding tickets? (In GA)?

I'm a 17 year old male, and I drive a 6cyl 1996 Ford F-150 and it's a stick shift. The truck is original, and the tires are stock size. I was driving home one night on 441 and a County Sheriff deputy clocked me doing 90mph in a 55mph. Here's how I know I'm not exactly innocent, but definitely not guilty of what I was charged with (because I was still speeding, just no where near 90mph) my truck won't go 90mph on a good day. The speedo stops at 85mph, I was going uphill, in 5th gear, the truck was slap loaded full of ****, and I had almost no gas. I even had my Lawyer try to get the truck to 90mph, he was going downhill, with a small load, and a full tank and he got it to a top speed of 76mph. The next problem is, a month later, I got a 63 in a 45. This one I'm guilty of, and will probably plead guilty to. Because I'm under 18, it takes a total of 4 points in a period of 12 months to suspend my license for a minimum of 6 months. The first ticket (90mph) is a 6 point ticket on its own, and the second one (63mph) is a 2 point ticket. I have already taken two defensive driving courses. I need to know how I should plead for the 1st ticket. Should I plead nolo, or should I plead not guilty? I don't care about the fines, I just care about keeping my license. How can I keep my license? Side note: the second ticket was given by GSP, other than these two tickets, I have nothing on my record.

How to check if my PCM is bad?

1988 Ford F150
351W 5.8L V8
Engine is out of a 1995 - Exact same engine as sro k just different year. Didn't change much.

Every piece of evidence I've found combined is pointing towards a bad PCM. The truck wouldn't idle worth a **** and stalled out many times for no reason. The truck will only run with the SPOUT connector removed, taking the PCM out of the equation as far as advancing the timing. For a while it would run fine with just the SPOUT connector disconnected, but after a while it started stalling out again the same as it was. I tried a few things, but the only thing that kept the engine idling without stalling was disconnecting the MAP sensor too. It's like the computer is slowly losing control and can't read the information sent to it. I believe the timing is off a little bit due to the outer ring on harmonic balancer being spun, but it's only about 5 degrees out. Which isn't enough to kill the truck like that, it would at least idle.

New parts include: MAP Sensor, Distributor, and ICM.

Is there an easy direct way of checking if the PCM is bad for sure? Without doing a complicated run around of tests. I heard you could open the metal casing of the PCM and see if it was burnt, cracked, or had blown capacitors. Is this true?