Rear main seal is setting in the block uneven?

I purchased a 2000 ford ranger with a 3.0 flex fuel V6. The engine spun a rod bearing and I picked up another engine at the salvage. Anyways, the rear main seal on the salvaged engine is setting in crooked. The bottom is about an 1/8 of an inch further in than the top. I really don't want to replace it. I tipped the engine back to see if oil leaks… It doesn't. So, do you think its alright to slap it in or do I need to replace the rear main seal? Again, there's NO leaks…

Does anyone else own a ford ranger with a 3.0L flex fuel?

Or any mechanics that have worked on several? If so, I have a question for you. What are the automatic transmissions like in them? How does the engines hold up? What is the overall durability and quality? The reason I ask is because I bought 1 a month back and it has been a nightmare from hell. I'm doing a motor swap next week and I also have replaced alot of chassis parts. I need to know if I need to sell it or keep it. What is your experience with this ranger in particular? Below is a pic of it. Does anyone else own a ford ranger with a 3.0L flex fuel

Can I just replace the rod bearings without having the crank turned?

I have a 2000 ford ranger that has a 3.0L V6 flex fuel. A salvage engine cost 1600-1800 which I found absurd since they all have within 40000 miles of the engine in my truck. It has developed a very slight rod knock. It is not even noticeable unless you pull a plug wire off and then it's loud. So, my question is, can I just buy a set of standard sized rod bearing and drop the pan and replace them, or would I have to have my crank turned and buy new connecting rods and undersized bearings? A set of rod bearing is only like 27 bucks. I was going to replace the rear main seal anyways. So, what's your're opinion? Any help would be appreciated since I'm not a professional rebuilder or anything…

Can a worn timing chain cause a sound that sounds like a rod knock?

My 2000 ford ranger with a 3.0L flex fuel started having a valve tick. That tick disappeared and a knock developed. However, when the engine gets warmed up, there's a loud tapping on the timing chain cover. The knock isn't consistent. It just goes knock knock knock and then goes away for a moment, then comes back. At 2500 rpms, the knocking disappears and a ticking noise develops. I have listened and the knock is coming from cylinder 1. That is also where the valve ticking was located. It also misses very badly and when you pull of the plug wire on cylinder 1, it knocks like crazy! What do you think? Bad rod bearings, bad timing chain, vacuum leak, or valve lifter issues? Its also a OHV engine. I need some help with this please, any ideas, opinions, or answers of any kind would be appreciated.

2014 Ford Focus SE (flex fuel) mpg is horrible?

So we got a flex fuel rental car and the first week we had the rental was great. We didn't have to fill up at all. After the first week i accidentally put regular gas (about half a tank) and the mpg was terrible, it barely lasted a day. The second time i filled up (to full) the tank was almost empty and i used E-85. It lasted about two days and i only got 23.3 miles. I'm still using the E-85 and getting about 23 mpg.

I don't know what the rental place put in the car, but how can i get my gas mileage back up to what is was during that first week. Should i try regular 87 gas again but use a full tank? Any suggestions?

I accidentally put regular gas in my flex fuel ford focus?

I can usually go a week without having to fill up but after using the regular gas i can only go a day or two on a full tank before i have to fill up.

I thought if i let my tank go to empty (even the refuel light came on) that would help, but it hasn't. What should i do to get my gas mileage back to what is was before?

How bad is it to run a 3.0L flex fuel ford ranger engine that has a tapping noise?

I have a 2000 ford ranger lte 4x4 with a 3.0L V6 flex fuel (can run 85% ethanol) and it sound smooth and good when cold, but when engine warms up, it develops a loud tapping. I thought it might be a bad hydralic lifter. I'm not really sure. I changed the plugs and they were TERRIBLE beyond anything I have ever seen. I'm really surprised it even ran. I bought it last week and it has had major neglect issues. It had rusty water in radiator. Bad wheel bearing. Bad nasty oil and incorrect oil filter. Bad wheel cylinder. I put new plugs, wires, wheel cylinder, wheel hub assembly, master cylinder, new oil and filter and drained and changes the sh*tty water in radiator and replaced with good antifreeze and water solution. The tapping is still persistent though… It runs down the road good now and has nice power, but it just taps… Any ideas on what it might be? Do you think it is a nasty lifter and what damage could be caused by driving it with a bad lifter?

My car won't move in drive or reverse?

I have a 96 ford thunderbird 4.6L v8 I was going down the road about 40 mph when I heard a deep kind of grinding/screeching noise under my car it was raining so I didn't pay it any mind thought a belt was wet or something but then I pulled into a parking lot and then it started to shake/vibrate and then my rpms went through the roof I could not reverse or drive I thought it could be u-joints or flex plate (btw it was the first time actually driving the car in about a year)