How to permanently fix a vapor lock problem on my camper/rv?

How to permanently fix a vapor lock problem on my camper/rv? - 1

Added (1). it is a 1986 ford jamboree, the front end is a e-350 with a 460v8 and an auto trans. I'm going to replace the fuel pump to see if that works. It has a severe problem with vapor lock.

Added (2). it has an electric fuel pump back by the gas tank beside the fuel filter

Added (3). frankie, the brakes are fine, we just bought the camper and there are no twisty turny roads here. Also the camper won't drive faster than 50 without losing power and slowing down cutting out and backfiring with its vapor lock problem

Added (4). i don't have a problem with the brakes! It is the fuel delivery and vapor lock

Replacing the fuel pump may fix it, but vapor lock is caused by gas boiling in the fuel line between the pump and carb. You can insulate that tube with an insulation wrap to prevent vapor lock. Installation of an electric or solid state pump back by the tank and bypass the mechanical pump can also fix it.

You are fighting an uphill battle. When your vehicle was made many cars had engine mounted fuel pumps and gasoline had low vapor pressure to control vapor lock. Today none of the refiners care about vapor pressure because nearly all cars and light trucks have in-tank fuel pumps.

The first line of defense is an insulating gasket under the fuel pump, and next is heat insulation on the exposed metal fuel lines under the hood. I doubt replacing the fuel pump itself will make a difference, but the desperation move - one that will definitely fix it for a moderate amount of work and expense, is to put a low pressure electric pump near the fuel tank. The source is a selection of likely choices from J C Whitney.

I would try wrapping the metal fuel lines near the engine with thermal resistant heat shielding tape… Or called exhaust / header tape… Sold at parts stores or speed shops, online, etc… Some people just use aluminum foil to wrap fuel lines with limited results in blocking heat transfer. The wrapping will reduce any heat transfer from the engine to the fuel line and reduce the chances of vapor lock. Or reroute the fuel lines if possible away from heat sources like exhaust manifolds. Another thing to try is to install a thermal spacer plate between the carb and engine… Some are just made of a phenolic resin that mount in place of the carb base gasket and some have a metal heat shield incorporated into them to block engine heat getting to the carb fuel bowl.

I use to own a 69 Charger RT 440 with AC and they had a special fuel filter design with 3 fuel lines at the filter… One from the fuel pump, one from the filter to the carb and one return line from the filter to the fuel tank. That filter setup was used on some RT 440 and Hemi models to avoid vapor lock issues… Mine got plenty hot under the hood in summer with AC on… The return line offered a path for vapor to bleed off to the tank. Might be a bit of a hassle to modify your engine/fuel tank for that but that is an option as well. I'd start by adding heat shielding/wrap to fuel lines or carb or rerouting the fuel lines if possible and perhaps use header tape to wrap any exhaust manifolds in fuel line areas to keep exhaust heat away from them.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Taylor/Taylor-Heat-Shields-Wraps-Sleeving/946133/10002/-1

http://heatshieldproducts.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetor-heat-shields