2010 Ford F-150 STX 4.6 purge valve solenoid?

I notice it's time to change my purge valve solenoid when the car shuts off when stopping. No engine light comes on. I change the selonoid and it runs again for about 15k miles and it goes bad again.

Do I need to change the big canister (charcoal) related to this valve selonoid? Will that fix it or what do you suggest.

The purge valve has nothing to do with your motor stalling, If you're not getting a code for the purge valve I doubt it needs replacing. The charcoal canister only needs replacing if you're getting Codes for a large or small emission leak or if you've topped up the gas tank too much and flooded the charcoal canister with gasoline.
If your motor stalls at stop signs clean the throttle body and have the idle air control motor tested. That's what controls the idle speed.

You need to stop pumping gas after the pump clicks off and stop flooding the charcoal canister.

Throwing random parts at a problem until you find something that works is an EXTREMELY expensive way to "fix" your car, Skippy. How do you KNOW that the "purge valve solenoid" is at fault in the first place?

I SUGGEST that you find a REAL mechanic who can troubleshoot your car's problem and MAYBE even FIX it for you without spending money on parts that don't NEED to be replaced.

Replace with an OEM solenoid, clean the throttle body and check for a bad VCT solenoid.

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I think everyone on here has given you good advice, except for that a_ _hole
JetDot… His narcissism shields him from reality. He's lost on the fact this is a Q&A not B&B belittle & Bully.

Check the vacuum hose from the cannister to the purge valve… If you find small bits of charcoal in the line or valve, then the cannister may have a ruptured mesh which normally holds the charcoal granules in place and is allowing them to flow through the system and clog /stick open the purge valve. If that is the case, you will need to replace the cannister blow out /flush the vacuum lines/hoses and possibly replace another new purge valve although one simple trick is to install a clear plastic cannister type fuel filter (sold at parts stores or online ) in the vacuum line prior to the purge valve to keep those granules from entering/clogging the purge valve. Install the inline fuel filter in an area where you can easily inspect it for the presence of charcoal bits and replace it if it gets too clogged… Cheaper than a new cannister although that may be the best option to replace the cannister for the long term.

Stalling issues can also be due to a clogged or defective IACV… Idle Air Control Valve… Which is how the PCM controls idle speeds… May need to clean or test that as well. And clean the TB plate/bore area/linkage of any soot /carbon buildup.

Those modular 4.6 and 5.4 motors also had issues with VCT valves causing stalling or rough idle issues… Check those as well. Any rough idle or power loss? Engine sounds like a diesel when running?

What

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