Starter stays engaged?
Need help regarding the starter relay, I've replaced both starter relay as well as the ignition switch. I don't know if I got the wiring backwards, but I took it off how it was working. Car is a 1962 ford falcon, any help would be appreciated never had a problem before. 
The small wire on the left should have an S marked above it. That is the Start or Crank wire it comes from the ignition switch. The Solenoid is Grounded to the body. The other small wire is NOT a Ground. Take it off until you know what it does.
According to wiring diagrams, the small wire on the right (same side as large wire going to battery) should be red/blue in color and leads from the ignition switch and neutral safety switch for the starting circuit. That wire/circuit is what energizes the relay coil and closes the contacts for starting when ignition switch is turned to Start position. The relay simply grounds via it's metal mounting plate. The small wire on the left (brown wire) is part of the ignition coil circuit which backfeeds 12+ volts during starting to the coil. Once the engine starts and the key turns to Run position, the relay opens and that circuit then is not getting full power from the relay… The resistance wire circuit from the ignition switch feeds to the coil at a lower voltage… Usually around 9 volts to minimize degrading of the ignition points. So you may see constant power in that wire since it also splices to the coil wiring.
Sounds like you may have the small wires on the wrong terminals and are feeding constant power from the ignition coil circuit to the relay coil which closes the starter relay contacts with key in Run position. Test which small wire gets power when ignition key is turned to Start position. Then test to see which small terminal on the relay engages the coil/closes contacts of the relay and operates the starter… Use a jumper wire from the battery held briefly to the relay small terminals to see which one engages the relay. The wire from the ignition switch for starting should go to that terminal and the other wire goes to other terminal.
- Car consumes 3/4 Quart of Oil for first 1000 miles and basically stays at a 1/4 for another 4000 miles? I have been noticing this for sometime, no visible leaks underneath, no drips either and I have been looking and checking pretty routinely, what would cause after a oil change for the car to consume 3/4 of a quart for the first 1000 miles and then basically stay at a 1.4 for another 4000 miles? Vehicle is 2006 Ford Taurus SE OHV 3.0 note. When I say a quarter. I'm talking about the 1/4 line (amount) on the dipstick from full to re-fill
- Problem when 4wd hubs are engaged? I have a 4x4 1988 2.3 five speed Ford Ranger. When I engage the manual locking hubs (but even when truck is still in 2wd) There's a distinct rattle felt when going at higher speeds like over 45 MPH. But it is not present when hubs are not locked, or when going slower. Bad U-joints? Any Ideas?
- My 2008 ford ranger Truck is making a Grinding noise when clutch is engaged/press. What are my options? I attach a youtube video of a different car making the same sound. Is my only option to replace the clutch or can it be adjusted? If anybody could link a repair manual to a 2008 ford ranger that would be awesome. I tried google and torrent sites but had no luck
- Starter stays engaged but doesn't keep cranking? I have a 1965 Ford mustang and when I start the car it starts up and the starter stops pushing the motor over but the starter its self won't disengage from the flywheel. Anybody have any ideas why this could be happening?