How accurate is kelly blue book?

I have a 2000 ford ranger step side 4x4 with a 3.0L V6. It is mechanically sound and drives great, has a 3 inch body lift and oversized offroad tires, but the bad part is that it has a really rough interior and has 183000 miles on the body… The engine I just installed only had around 120000 and runs great. Anyways, kbb suggested a private party value of a little more than 3100 bucks, but I'm just not sure if this is a reasonable suggestion. I was thinking around 2500. However, I seen several on craigslist with more problems mechanically than mine fore around 4000 or more! Would people really care if the interior was a little rough? Its small things like dome cover missing and the center console lid is broken and the cruise control buttons are broken off. It has an aftermarket radio though that looks and works great… Anyways, what should I price it for? Should I follow the kbb value or go less? Or more?

Dealerships and insurance appraise the car using Kelly blue book and/or comparable vehicles in the area. During private sales, a seller can try to sell for whatever price he wants. Kelly Blue Book is just a reference to what the rate is in the current market. I suggest you try to list it higher and go lower if there's little interest.

KBB should be used as a guideline or reference only. It all depends what similar trucks are selling for in your area. Besides, when you're talking about an older car, it's pretty much worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.

It's a guideline.

I would suggest you ask 3100, and be prepared to negotiate. If a potential buyer points out the faults and wants a better price, you can always drop back to your 2500, (or 2600, or 2700)

Accurate enough that it's basically the standard to determine value in the auto sales industry

You have to have a good moter,
the year does not mater at all.
the blue book doesn't tell
about the moter
just the year, and
will it break down soon
who know not the killy
blue book.
God

It's usually pretty accurate. Better if you are getting it from a dealer.

When you're using KBB there are a couple things to keep in mind.

1. With a very few exceptions there are no cars that are in "excellent" condition. A car that daily driven, and garaged will top out at "Very good". If car hasn't been garaged and has been exposed to the elements, it's going to be "good" at best most of the time. A car with some paint chips/scuffs will be "fair" and anything below that is going to be "poor".

2. Dealerships don't use KBB. The use NADA black book, which is updated every other week and only available to dealerships via subscription. KBB uses rather inflated values. Dealerships will buy cars at NADA value, price them a bit above KBB value and then sell them at or near KBB value. Dealerships usually make more money off of used cars than the do new cars.

3. You truck as you describe it. Would be in the "rough" category. The trade in value should be around $2200-$2400. The private party value would around $2900-$3000. Possibly a little more or less depending on some other factors.

4. If I were looking at your truck there are several red flags that would be deal breakers for me

- Why did the engine need to be replaced? That might suggest abuse or improper maintenance And you replaced it with a junkyard engine, not a rebuilt/remanufactured one. It makes me wonder what other expenses you've skimped on

- Body lifts are cheap for reason, they don't actually improve the off-road prowess of the vehicle. Why not a suspension lift? Again it makes me wonder what else you cheaped out on.

- Larger tires, did you regear it to compensate for the larger tires? If you didn't shell out for a suspension lift, I'm guessing you didn't regear the truck either.

These are factors that are going to diminish the value of the truck. If it were me, I probably wouldn't buy it, Rangers aren't exactly rare. If I were selling it, I would probably price it at around $2900 and take the first person who offered $2500 or better.