Does the oil pan have to be removed to change the rear main seal on a ford 3.0L V6 in a 2000 ford ranger?

I have the engine removed from the truck and was swaping in a salvaged engine that all checks out good except for a slight leaking rear main seal. So, after inspecting the rear main seal, it appears as though a could just slide it out and a new one in. Does the oil pan need to be removed? Or can I just carefully remove the old seal and clean the surfaces good and install a new one?

I don't know

  • How much should a rear main seal replacement cost? I have a 2000 ford ranger 4x4 with a 3.0l v6. The rear main seal is leaking, but here is the deal, it has a 3 inch body lift which makes it really easy to reach the transmission bolts vs the factory pull the motor method. So, what do you think it should cost… Ballpark answer?
  • 2000 ford ranger 3.0 4x4 oil pan gasket replacement? What's it take to change? Step by step guide would be helpful. Personal tricks of the trade. What specific tools I need. Can I drop the pan enough to clean off old gasket and slide new one in? Evening day or all day or weekend project.
  • Is an oil pan gasket hard to change on a ford econoline? If you have done it before please give me details or if you have links to videos please share. Its a 93 e150 5.0 motor.
  • Rear main seal is setting in the block uneven? I purchased a 2000 ford ranger with a 3.0 flex fuel V6. The engine spun a rod bearing and I picked up another engine at the salvage. Anyways, the rear main seal on the salvaged engine is setting in crooked. The bottom is about an 1/8 of an inch further in than the top. I really don't want to replace it. I tipped the engine back to see if oil leaks… It doesn't. So, do you think its alright to slap it in or do I need to replace the rear main seal? Again, there's NO leaks…