What's causing my car to stall while driving?

I own a 2000 Ford explorer XLS, V4. I'd like to know what can cause my car to stall while driving? I never had a problem like this before until 3 days ago. I was able to restart my car about 10 minutes later after it cranked for about 2-3 secs. I had the battery changed 6 months ago. Crankshaft position sensor was replaced a week ago. Alternator tested fine. All sensors are working and fuel pressure and fuel pump are ok as well. I was able to drive the car with no stalling for the past two days. I took the car to the mechanics and they weren't be able to find the problem.

If anyone knows what's going on or have any suggestions, please let me know.

It could be your Pats system which stands for Passive anti-theft system. It'll start when the car is completely cold but once it gets to operating temperature the PAT system kicks in and the car stalls the only way that it can go bad is either at your key that puts out the signal or at the ignition itself where the antenna or receiver is. It will slowly keep doing this until you wind up in a dangerous situation you can just have it reprogrammed by a locksmith but it's going to cost a couple hundred good luck award me best answer from right. Did you let someone work on it that doesn't know about Ford's. You'll know this is what's wrong with it cuz the car will run perfectly well when it does run. It'll just stall while you're on the freeway or as soon as it gets to operating temperature it'll happen faster on hot days because it's already closer to operating temperature. Did you use a duplicate key that wasn't from the manufacturer cuz that will activate the PATS too

Change the fuel filter.

It might be related to the new sensor that was just installed. Always start troubleshooting from the last thing you had done to it. There may be something else unrelated, but that's a start. You'll just have to wait and see it it happens again. That's all anyone who is clueless about cars can do. With a 17 year old vehicle there could be a lot of things suddenly go wrong.

EGR?

The idle air control motor assembly needs to be tested with a factory scan tool. The scan tool can make the IAC motor move and test the computer to make sure it's commanding the IAC motor to work and adjust the idle speed. When an IAC motor shorts out it can fry the drivers in the PCM that controls the IAC motor and then you need a new PCM too! Get to the dealer right away and hope you didn't wait too long!

There may be something else unrelated, but that's a start. You'll just have to wait and see it it happens again.

Be engine

The problem is that the car is a Ford.

Never been a V4 Ford auto engine, Sabb made V4's many decades ago. Get a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and test it first. Fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump? Almost all other engine issues will set a OBD2 PO code and make the CEL flash. You say this is good on hearsay, did you actually have this tested "the fuel pressure" or just a quick oil monkey guess at it's good? Many issues with tank mounted fuel pumps not holding static pressure to the fuel injectors intermittently, I doubt you had it diagnosed properly by a qualified and knowledgeable auto technician.

You are the Atypical person that starts part swapping and listing all you have tried, and there's no helping that type. Why change a perfectly good crank sensor on a whim? This approach only allows you to add more bugs to the engine by messing up perfectly good parts on a guess that it might be the magical part to make your carpet ride again. Take the vehicle to a real qualified mechanic, those guys at the tire, brake, and exhaust shops are just that, tire monkeys!