My car died while driving, what could be the problem?

I think it might just be that the car is getting old, but I want it to last for the rest of the school year, at least. I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. A few weeks ago, I was able to drive it to school, but then it wouldn't start at all so I couldn't get home. We tried to jump it, but it didn't work, so we got it towed. They said the alternator was the problem, so we got that fixed. Then there was some problems with the speedometer and the radio. We got the fuse fixed for the speedometer. The car worked just fine for another few weeks after that. Then yesterday, on my way home from school, it started beeping at me, the wheel got really hard to turn, and when I stopped at a stop sign, the engine completely died. I was only a block away from home, so my dad came and we jumped it. It worked just fine after jumping it and I was able to drive it the rest of the way home. Then we put it on the charger because we thought maybe the battery needed to be charged (which is also less than a year old). I'm kind of scared to drive the car again because I don't want it to give out when I'm driving again. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

Why is my car not starting?

I have a 1999 ford taurus with the 3.0 sohc v6. Only has 74,442 miles and it will not start. It has never giving me a problem before. I moved the car around my driveway to clean it out. When I went to start it back up to move the car back to its spot, it wouldn't start. The car will crank over but will not turn over to run. When I turn the key to start it the batterie light flashes on and off real fast. The car did not have any lights on the dash and the gas is a little under half a tank. Like I said the car cranks over like it wants to start. So I believe the batterie is charged up. I have also tryed resetting the cars fuel pump and that didn't work. There's a switch in the right side of the trunk for it. If anyone can help me with some ideas that would be great, thanks.

Brake issue with 04' Ford Taurus?

My car's brakes feel like they're about gone. It goes down to the floor almost. When going down a steep hill, it won't hold. Ran a red light once already thru traffic cause i couldnt stop. A couple weeks ago i took it to a garage to have the brakes fixed. They replaced the front brake pads and rotors. And told me the brakes were "spongy". I figured it was because i bought cheaper brake pads. After paying and getting my car back. I soon found out the problem was still there. So its something more than need brakes replaced. A friend mentioned it could be the "Anti-Lock" for the brakes. That they had the same problem before. Need to know what could cause this. Whether its Anti-Lock or something else.

95 Ford Taurus Speaker Specs?

I have spent a lot of time searching and have no results. I know the rear speakers in my Taurus (GL) are 3.2 ohms, but I need too know what the front (door) speakers are rated at ohm-wise.

Get an Amp for speakers or for a sub?

Ok, I have 2 Pioneer A1674R (35RMS) speakers in my front doors, and 2 Pioneer DS6802R (60RMS) in the rear of my Ford Taurus 2002 SE. And a Pioneer DEH-6300UB stereo. Here is my dilemma, I want good highs and mids, which an amp can provide for speakers, but I also want a nice sub to give me decent lows, I would get a 300 watt sub. My stereo puts out 14RMS to my speakers… Yay. The amp I would get would push out 50RMS but comes with a free gauge kit and is priced at $110. The amp for the sub would push out 350RMS at 2 ohms and cost $110 and comes with a free gauge kit.

Options:
1. Get an 4 channel amp for speakers only, and get my good highs. (approx. $250 for amp and install by bestbuy, if you know where to install for cheaper then please tell)
2. Get an amp and sub for my good lows, then make my stereo only put out mids and highs to my speakers saving energy and helping quality for speakers. (approx $450 for amp and sub and box and install, if you can find a cheaper place to install those, then please tell)

So what I want answered is: Should I buy an amp just for my speakers or get a sub instead. Overall sound quality is my highest concern. Also price is a huge issue too. I have cash for both options but I don't want to spend it all my money. Thanks.

Here are the amps:
4 channel: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M4050/Sound-Ordnance-M-4050.html?tp=115
Mono: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M1350/Sound-Ordnance-M-1350.html?tp=115

Added (1). I can even get a 75RMS 4 channel amp for $150 or a 100RMS 4 channel for $180 but that's still money and I don't think that the extra wattage will help that much. And I can get a 500RMS mono amp for $130. All of the amps come with free 8 gauge wire kits. Which would be best for the long term?

Vin number problems here. Please respond fast?

Okay so… I almost totaled my car last summer, and my father fixed it up for me. And when i went to go get a title and whatever they asked me for the vin number of the car i got the parts from, we tryed to contact the guy we got the parts from and we can't get ahold of him and we've been trying to for months now… I need my car. Is there any way we could get around this? I have a 2002 ford taurus

I have a 99 Taurus that runs rough?

I replaced the heads and water pump and the car was running great for about 100 miles until I was driving and it just shut off. I couldn't get it started. The fuel pump was working and I checked the coilpacks all good, no spark at the plug. Replaced cam sensor and crank sensor still nothing. I found a wire that goes to vehicle speed sensor rubbing against heads and appeared to short out. I took to ford and they said computer was bad, I replaced with used one and it ran rough, ford said to let it run and it might recognize the unfamiliar new home and run ok. It still running rough and using alot of gas. Do I need to have comp flashed?

I have a 2000 Ford Taurus Sedan that has a screeching metal on metal sound when switching gears to reverse?

And the sound is there the entire time you are backing up. Does this sound like a transmission issue? Also hearing a rubbing noise in the steering, and it is a little tight, any idea what that could be? Also heater blows, but not real strong and no heat comes out… Does that sound like a difficult and expensive fix? And could the heater or any of the above issues cause my engine light to light up solid continuously? The car runs pretty good aside from these issues.

Can i get out of a ford lease early? Or get a new car early?

After my 2004 GTO broke down, i was forced to lease a 2014 Focus, for 3 years and had to get extended miles. Its been about 5 months since i've had the car and so far i hate it. Slow, cheaply made, stereo is terrible, no traction in winter, i don't like it at all. Is there any chance of getting out of the lease early or turning it in without hurting my credit, or even turning it in to lease a different car. Possibly a truck or taurus. Has anyone else been in this situation?