Does a 1999 Ford Taurus need a rear wheel alignment?

I bought a new front (passenger side) tire 2 & 1/2 years ago and went to get an alignment at The Tire Store. The fellow told me that he couldn't do it - I needed new struts, tie rods, and ball joints. Since then I've been rebuilding my suspension all around, plus new brakes.

I bought a new tire for the other front wheel 5 months ago, and went to get an alignment again, and the fellows at the same Tire Store told me that once again, I needed new struts. The struts were replaced 2-3 months before. My mechanic, Al, said they just wanted to take my money and recommended a different shop. I made an appointment for a four-wheel alignment.

The fellow at that shop said he couldn't do it because my tie rods were shot, and showed me the 'click' when he wiggled the wheel (They were replaced 5 months ago)… Al's junior mechanic verified the problem. I read online that driving a car with shot alignment can blow your tie rods. It's possible that happened.So, today I got new tie rods again, and he also aligned the front manually so I don't blow the them again while I save for the alignment.Al also told me that rear alignments can't be done. The rear wheels are fixed, and the front is aligned to the rear wheels. I'm confused because both shops were prepared to do front and rear alignments. Al said they were just trying to take my money. Should I be asking for front & rear alignment or just front? There's a big difference in the price. Thanks in advance for any clarity you can offer.

What's wrong with my car? - 5

I have an old Ford Taurus. Somewhere between 98 and 02. It's been sitting for about a year. Before I stopped driving it the engine light came on and the diagnostic tool I attached to it said it was the throttle. Today I went to jump it so I can get it up and running again. Everything turned on but it wouldn't start. It was making a weird noise as it was trying to start but it just couldn't do it. After I disconnected the jumper cables I tried to turn it on and it wouldn't do anything. The previous owners took great care of the car and it always ran very well for me. Even after the engine light came on it ran almost prefect. I can't hook the diagnostic tool I have to it cuz the car has to start for it to do a reading. Any ideas? Could it just need a new battery or something more mechanical?

Is it bad I want to go back to a cheaper car?

I'm 21 and I bought a new car this spring. It's a 2011 Ford Taurus. I bought it because I had an 09 that was developing weird and expensive problems. I used to have an early 90s Taurus and I loved it. I was going to start driving my 03 Town Car again but discovered problems with the frame. I traded in the 09 for the 2011. The price was $11,000. It's financed. I put $3,000 down and my interest is around 19% so that makes my payments around $270 a month at 75 months. My insurance is paid up until next month. I make the payments on time every month. I went back to college. I have a part time job but, I'm thinking buying this car over a $5000 older car wasn't the best choice. I can't afford a lot of the things I need so I make it work with what I have. I've never missed or been late on a payment and usually pay $10-$20 extra. Nobody helps me pay it. I can't sell it because I owe more than it's worth. I'm not going to stop making payments because it'll ruin my credit. I run a side business (mobile car detailing) and I work. So I NEED a vehicle (and a fairly big one). What should I do here? I have 70 payments left. I'd rather be able to just put the money towards things I need. I love the car and can kind of afford it but I kind of want to go back to a payment free or smaller payment car. What should I do?

Added (1). If anything, I'll just keep making the payments. I plan to transfer after community college and I don't know if I'll be able to make the payments at that point as I intend on going far away. My insurance is only $100 a month. But would be cheaper with an older car.

Ford Taurus 03, AC clutch won't engage. Tried to jump low pressure cut-off switch but no luck, jumped the clutch relay and clutch engage?

Here is what I have done, vacuumed the system for two hours, then held the system over night and no leak was observed. Filled the system and the clutch did not engage or the compressor came on. Thought that the refrigerant was low and that is why the clutch won't come on. I have tried to jump the low pressure cut-off switch by removing the cable and put a paper clip in the two holes in the wire side (female side) not the male connector on top of the dryer and it did not work. Went to the clutch relay switch and jump it the same way but engaged the clutch and was able to charge the system. So, now I'm stuck, I put the required feron and the compressor is brand new! Why the clutch and the compressor won't come back on. Checked all possible related fuses and don't see anything that is not working. What should I look into next. Please give me some details since this is new to me and trying to learn it. Thanks

Added (1). One more detail, It seems like the fan is cycling, when it is on, the ac pressure is stable while I have the paper clip on the ac clutch relay. However, when the fan is off, the high side pressure escalate fast. Not sure what this suppose to mean!

Ford Taurus 03, AC clutch won't engage and feron won't flow in while charging?

I have replaced the ac compressor, dryer, orifice tube, and condenser then vacuumed the system and let is set for 30 mins and no leak was observed. Now, I'm using a set of manifold to charge it the system. Connected first can 12 oz and went great, system started to charge and the can got cold then connected second can but flow was a lot slower and then the flow stopped. I'm only charging on the low side of course and the high side is closed. I have noticed that the manifold gauges on the high and low are reading really high around 110 psi on the low and 100 on the high. The system is not accepting any gas flow anymore and at this time the compressor clutch won't engage. The compressor is brand new and filled it will oil prior to the installation. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, please any help and guidance will be appropriated. What course of actions should I take? Thanks.

P.S. The total refrigerant shall be 34 oz so I don't think the system is overcharged. I think I have about 16 oz at the most in there. Also, replaced the blown A/C clutch relay, PCM keep alive pwoer fuse 10A.

Ford Taurus 2003, AC compressor clutch failed, took it off but wondering if I need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube

Ford Taurus 2003, AC compressor clutch failed, took it off but wondering if I need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube? Thanks?

Added (1). Please note that I haven't done this A/C work before. I pulled the service manual and following it step by step but if you have any other inputs please let me know. Really appreciate the help. Planning to replace the compressor but not sure about the accumulator or the orifice tube. These are all original parts so it has been for 16 years!

Poetry, poetry, poetry?

Across the street is a Ford Taurus.

It is driven by a man named Boris.

He's from Russia.

and he's gonna crush ya!