97 ford mustang battery won't stay charged?
So i've checked the battery it self and the alternator and both are good. Both battery and alternator are both new. I can charge it up and it will be dead with in a day or two.
Something is on pulling power from the battery, Most likely a light is on and I'd check the glove box first.
You have a live bleed from the battery
Make sure you test the alternator through the battery not just from the alternator terminals. Is there something constantly running, using electricity even when the engine is shut off like a light ("hidden" like maybe in the trunk or glove box or console?), a stereo… A battery will drain if it's not regularly charged but it shouldn't be dying that quickly and the more a battery is drained the less charge it will take, a battery's life span decreases as it's discharged if it's discharged almost completely empty and then recharged frequently.
An auto parts store like AutoZone or Advance Auto can and will test both the battery and the alternator for free. Stop in and ask for a diagnostics test. They do the battery test in the store so you'll have to bring the battery in with you to have that done.
Take the battery back if you still got the receipt. Tell them where you bought the battery, the problem. They will check your car alternator output and if that is putting out, then the battery is at fault. (it happens) You will be getting a replacement.
Usually a broken trunk light switch or a DIY radio wrongly wired
If the battery is going flat it is either not being charged correctly, or you have a draw on it. Both can be readily checked by an auto sparky but if you want to have a go, charge the battery with a charger, then disconnect the battery overnight (make sure you have radio codes and be prepared to reset a few things) and see if it goes flat. If so, the draw (internal short) is in the battery. If not, the draw is some short in your electrical system. To flatten a battery takes something major, not just a side lamp left on. Internal phases of the alternator may be faulty (especially if it is a rewind rather than a factory fresh "new" one).
Alternator output can be checked with a multimeter but if you don't have, rev the motor and see if the lights get brighter. Check also the regulator, it may be rooted and preventing charge getting to the battery. Make sure your battery has fluid if it is the lead acid type with fillable cells.
Check the charging system fuse. I bet it's blown. Charge can't get from the alternator to the battery. Driving straight off the battery will get you down the road a bit before the battery is used up.
An eleven years old batterie getting charged to work as a fresh and new one. That is impossible. Even on woman's world day.
I have had a battery go bad in two weeks- so it might still be the battery.
So disconnect the battery cable (positive side) till you need to start it. If the car fails start (after the cable is reattached) then the problem is the battery (internal short). If starts then there's a short some place in the car, either a light that is not going off, a chaffed wire or something wired wrong. Any aftermarket parts are the first to suspect. Radio's and amplifiers are the most common.
HOW did you check the battery, itself?
HOW did you check the alternator?
Either the battery has a problem, or
the charging system has a problem, or
the car has a problem.
Now disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery every time you stop using the car. Reconnect it when you are ready to use the car. After a day or two, does the problem continue or does the problem disappear?
If the problem continues, then the battery has an internal problem. While this kind of sekf-discharging problem usually happens when a battery is very old, i guess it's still possible for a new battery to ne injured inside. A battery that is significantly discharged when the temperature is below 32°F or 0°C could be injured very easily.
If the problem disappearsb then you could use an ammeter or milliammeter to see if excesdive current is being drawn by the car, when the engine is not running, and everything is asdumed to be off. Approximately 35 milliamps (.035 amps) would be considered
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